Skimcoat Painting company

Drywall Plastering, Drywall taping

We repair plaster walls and ceilings and skim coat them

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Drywall taping is the final step of drywall installation.
We tape and finish installed drywall. We also repair drywall damage.
After drywall has been hung, the final step is drywall finish. Drywall sheets are joined from side to side and at the corners. This leaves thin grooves between the sheets that must be covered up before any paint can be applied. In addition, drywall screw heads and the indentations they make must also be covered. Corners must be capped and taped as well. Drywall taping consists of applying drywall compound and tape over joints. There are, however, 6 different levels of drywall finish. Each refers to a specific level of finish required for the joints in that particular area.

Finish Levels of drywall Plastering

Level 0
This level requires no taping, or finishing of any kind. Drywall hangers who are not finishers reach this level once the hanging is complete.

Level 1
Also known as fire taping, level 1 stipulates that all joints, angles and corners must be taped and cleared of excess compound. It only requires one layer of compound, though, so while the tape must be properly affixed over the joints, it need not be completely concealed. This level is often found in service corridors, unfinished attics and anywhere else not visible to either the public or the inhabitants of a structure.

Level 2
Does not make final appearance a priority. This requires, in addition to tape one layer of drywall compound, a second layer of compound covering the tape. Tool marks are acceptable. Level 2 finishing is called for when green board or water resistant drywall is hung to be covered with tile. Garages, storage areas and crawl spaces may also use level 2 finishing.

Level 3
This is the first level of finishing that requires all 3 layers of drywall compound. The first adheres the tape while the second and third fully conceal and smooth out the joints. All joints, angles and corners must be covered in this manner followed by primer. Rooms that will receive heavy texture call for this type of finish.

Level 4
Level 4 is essentially the same as level 3, requiring 3 layers of drywall compound over all joints, angles, fasteners and bracing or other accessories. The biggest difference between this and level 3 is that this level is required where light texture or covering such as wallpaper is applied.

Level 5
The final level requires everything that level 4 specifies. In addition, a thin layer of joint compound will be spread evenly across the entire surface of the wall. This level is used when non-textured paints are used and the builder needs to achieve the smoothest, highest-quality finish.

Skim Coat – Either a thin coat of joint compound applied or a material manufactured especially for this purpose and applied in accordance with manufacturer’s recommendations, over the entire surface. A skim coat is intended to conceal small imperfections in joints and on the surface of the drywall, smooth the texture of the paper, minimize differences in surface porosity, and create a more uniform surface to which the final decoration can be applied. There is no specific mil thickness that constitutes a proper skim coat. A skim coat will not approximate a plastered surface. Once the skim coat dries, the drywall paper may show through and the treated joints, filled voids, and spotted fastener heads will likely be visible.

Different building requirements call for different levels of drywall finish. Whether a room is out of sight and just needs a single coat of compound and tape over joints or a room will be entirely visible and needs the best finish possible, there is a drywall finish level that explicitly details the work that must be done.

How to Tape Drywall

The goal is straightforward: Make the drywall panel joints disappear so that the walls and ceilings are perfectly smooth. Taping and finishing Drywall Step-by-Step.

How to Finish Drywall

Techniques that taper use to finish Sheetrock. They are in the order you should follow them: drywall preparation, prepare materials, applying the tape and three coats of mud (setting type and regular compound), and sanding.

How to remove popcorn ceiling, step by step

A popcorn ceiling is a texture that was popular in the United States during the 1950s and 1960s. It is created by spraying a thick coat of plaster over a popcorn-textured ceiling. The plaster mixture contains an adhesive that causes the popcorn-like bumps to form.

How to Hire a Painting Contractor

How to price out a painting project for home owner. When pricing out a painting project, there are a few things to take into account. The size of the project, the type of paint, and the labor all play a role in how much the project will cost.

How to Tape Drywall

This step-by-step guide will show you how to finish your new wall with tape and joint compound. While hanging drywall requires some strength, preparing the drywall for paint or wallpaper requires precision. The goal is straightforward: Make the drywall panel joints disappear so that the walls and ceilings are perfectly smooth.
Is Drywall Finishing Difficult?
You need to have experience. Finishing drywall requires only a few tools: a small and large drywall knife, as well as a sander.

Taping and finishing Drywall Step-by-Step.

  1. Learning how to properly bed the tape and feather out the compound to an imperceptible edge is the difficult part. The other essential skill is sanding. You should avoid removing too much and tearing the paper tape. With a utility knife, screwdriver or tin snips, cut the band on top of the compound bucket and pry off the lid. Mix compound, with a mixing paddle inserted into drill. Mix until the compound is smooth. Add water if necessary.
  2. Check screw-heads protruding above the drywall surface and push them in until they are recessed. Cut any loose or torn paper from the drywall to prevent bits from getting into the compound.
  3. Cover the joints and screw-heads. Load about 2 inches of compound onto the knife blade’s edge. Begin by pressing the compound into the joints between the sheets in one corner of the room. Use a 20 – 30 degree angle to smooth out the compound. Get rid of any excess compound from the knife and return it into the bucket. Using a compound-loaded knife, fill screw holes. Proceed to Step 4 once all of the joints and screw-heads on a wall or ceiling have been filled.
  4. Place paper tape on seams. Pull 3 feet of tape from the dispenser without tearing it. Center the tape over the seam and carefully press it into the new compound with your fingertips. Unroll the tape and place it over the rest of the joint. Place the knife edge to the tape face at the end of the joint and tear.
  5. Feather it smooth Hold the knife against the tape at a 20 degree angle to the drywall. In an even stroke, move the knife to one end of the joint, pressing tape firmly into the compound. Clean the blade’s excess compound into the bucket. Repeat the process in the opposite direction. (Using this method, the tape will not pull away from the wall.) Steps 3, 4, and 5 should be repeated on the remaining walls or ceiling.
  6. Apply tape to the inside corners Fill the seam with compound and cover 2 inches on either side of the corner with compound using a 5-inch knife. Cut the tape as long as the length of the corner and fold it. Press the knife into the corner. Move the knife along the drywall, smoothing the tape on one side of the crease. Squeeze out extra mud by turning the blade 45 degrees. On the opposite side of the crease, run the knife in the same manner.
  7. Finish the outside corners. Make sure that every 10 inches, the metal corner bead on the outside corners is fastened or clasped. If necessary, use a corner clincher to straighten bends (see tools and materials above) Spread compound on one side of the bead with the 5-inch knife. Rep on the opposite side. Run the knife down the corner, smoothing the compound in one stroke, while holding the blade against the drywall and bead at the same time. Rep on the opposite side. Allow for overnight drying of the compound.
  8. Apply the second and third coats of compound. Scoop up 2 inches of compound with the 10-inch knife. Then, at each end of the blade, scrape off 2 inches. Apply compound to all joints and screw-heads in one pass, then smooth it out in another. Allow for overnight drying. Sand with 120 grit drywall sandpaper after complete drying. Cover the entire edge of a 12 inch knife with compound for the third coat, then apply to joints and screw-heads as previously. Smooth to the point of being undetectable, with a feathery edge. Allow to stand overnight before sanding as usual. To prepare for priming, wipe all surfaces with a moist cloth.
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